Category Archives: Austin, TX
May 15, 2012 El Narango: Austin, TX
El Naranjo has moved from a trailer to a spiffy new house on Rainey St — all the better to showcase their no Tex/all Mex food.
The space is sleek and pretty, much like Icenhauers next door.
We sat on the cute patio. There’s also a small room that’d be fun for a large group.
El Naranjo has specialty cocktails, in addition to small selection of wine. My friend had a Sidecar, which he said was perfect, and I had a glass of wine.
Instead of the predictable chips and salsa, El Naranjo brings out fresh bread, spicy butter, and a trio of totally addictive dips:
So far, so good. These are some serious salsas.
In terms of vegetarian options, El Naranjo has many vegetarian appetizers (salads, a dish with nopales, jicama enchiladas as an appetizer) and a few veg entrees, including a chili relleno made with puff pastry and a mole dish.
I asked the waiter five times, and he swore that all three moles that day were vegetarian, not even thinned with chicken stock. The manager came by later and explained that a couple of the moles (poblano and negro) have chicken stock, but they weren’t on the menu that night.
I ordered the rojo mole with vegetables:
The sauce itself was delicious and complex, as a mole should be, with smoky peppers and a slightly bitter note. The vegetables included chayote, peas, and mushrooms. It was all very good, but I could really have used some protein. The manager said they’d consider adding seitan or some other source of veggie protein (not very traditional, clearly) to the dish.
My friend had the pipian (pumpkin seed) sauce with shrimp, and he loved it.
El Naranjo is not cheap ($75 for two of us). But this is intricate Mexican food, as far as you can get from yellow cheese and grease.
I wish them well — and will be back to try the chili relleno.
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April 20, 2012 Swift’s Attic: Austin, TX
Swift’s Attic is bringing swank back. If you like to dress up a bit and wish Austin called for it more, this is the place for you. If you don’t like to dress up but love good food, Swift’s is also for you. If you think desserts are the point of a night out, and not an afterthought, this is definitely the place for you.
I love the vintage luxe vibe of this place, which is in the old Kyoto space. In building out the space, a ghost sign for the Sunset Central, an old rail line that ran through Central Texas, was uncovered:
There’s a decent-sized bar space (where they serve the full menu), and a larger dining area. A gorgeous banquette at the back of the space with a bird cage chandelier is clearly the table to get.
In addition to wine and beer, they have a small but interesting cocktail list, priced at $10 each. We tried the Razercrac, their take on a Sazerac made with rye vodka instead of whisky and absinthe. Complicated, cool drink.
Swift’s menu is divided into snacks and plates. Our helpful waiter explained that the menu goes from light to heavy, and that all plates are meant brought out as ready and meant to be shared. So you can sample lots of dishes, which is a lovely way to eat.
Right now, there are limited options for vegetarians. All the snacks but only one plate are vegetarian. I had my eye on a sunchoke salad that sounded vegetarian, but our waiter said it had pork in it. (Appreciate him knowing that.) Lots of pescetarian options, very limited choices for vegans.
So I had a lot of the snacks. The edamame with pop rocks and chili oil was clever – a salty take on pop rocks candy. I loved the blistered peppers, served with an addictive dip made with garrotxa cheese and vinegar.
Really good kimchi has been buried in someone’s backyard to ferment, right? Swift’s kimchi sampler included pickled asparagus, cabbage, and cauliflower – the last had a deep flavor and tasted like it had been fermenting for a while.
My “plate” was a roasted radicchio salad with arugula and olives:
The roasting really brought out the bitterness of the radicchio. My friends raved about the scallops (served with an unexpected cucumber gelato), the pork belly, the sardine. Comparisons were made to Barley Swine and Olivia.
For now, vegetarians are better off stopping here for cocktails and the snacks.
Or you could go straight to the fabulous desserts:
We had chocolate six ways, Popcorn & A Movie (a candy bar with carmelized popcorn and root beer sauce), and beet sorbet with thyme sauce. All were good, but the poor beet sorbet didn’t stand a chance with all the chocolate at the table. I love chocolate desserts, so the chocolate six ways is on my list to have again (and again).
So put on something nice (or don’t), and check this place out.
Tags: absinthe, cocktails, cucumber sorbet, garrotxa, pop rocks, Swifts Attic review
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April 9, 2012 Fonda San Miguel: Austin, TX
I love perfectly worn in boots and broken in jeans, but I am obsessed with the new when it comes to restaurants. My head explodes when I haven’t made it to the newest cool place. (Still kicking myself for not toughing it out when the wait at Barley Swine was merely two hours. And for not saying “OK” when Lenoir said they had an opening in two months. That was two months ago.)
But there’s so much to appreciate about a place that has been great day after day for decades. Like Fonda San Miguel, which has been serving interior Mexican food in the quiet, residential Rosedale neighborhood since 1975 (!)
I love the hacienda-style space, with its warm colors and huge old chandeliers:
The margaritas here are tart and strong, totally worth having. And Fonda staff are happy to help you pick a bottle from their long wine list.
I started with the nopales (cactus leaf) salad at my server’s advice – it wasn’t on the menu. Like okra, this dish has a tendency to be slimy, but not here. I liked that they served it with lettuce, avocado, and salsa so I could make little wraps.
Fonda’s menu is unchanging except for seasonal specials, which are rarely vegetarian. (If fish is part of your diet, lots of options here.)
Vegetarians can start with salads and quesadillas and move on to a handful of mains: roasted poblano pepper filled with cheese, baked zucchini filled with corn and cheese, or vegetable or cheese enchiladas with a choice of sauce.
I’ve had all of these dishes over the years, and they are all delicious. On this visit, I had the vegetable enchiladas with the verde salsa.
Enchiladas are a pretty simple dish, but Fonda’s taste amazing. I love the carrot, corn, and filling, as well as the tart verde salsa. The accompanying black beans are a perfect shot of vegetarian protein.
By the way, they have an epic brunch spread, one that will leave you barely able to stagger home for a nap.
And they’ve been doing all this since 1975. Respect.
Tags: enchiladas, interior Mexican, margaritas, nopales, Rosedale, zucchini
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April 1, 2012 Haddingtons: Austin, TX
Sometimes, when eating out, I think: you know, ___ would really love this place. When I was at Haddingtons, the blank in that sentence was filled by “Frank Sinatra.”
The great cocktails, rich food, swank decor: I’m totally sure he would’ve loved it. There’s a large room with a long bar and smaller rooms with old prints and taxidermy (not my favorite thing, but it fits the vibe here).
We went there most recently for Austin Restaurant Week and started the night with cocktails – Haddingtons has a long and creative list. We had a local interpretation of a whisky sour:
It wasn’t too sweet, and my cocktail snob friend declared it a good drink.
We had two vegetarian starters at the table. One was an arugula salad made special with delicious pistachio butter, and the other was cucumber gazpacho:
The gazpacho had a subtle marjoram flavor and a bit of acidity. The grapes and toasted bread added texture to the creamy soup. A great dish for those Austin evenings when it feels like it’s too hot to eat.
Haddingtons typically has a vegetarian main, and this week it was cauliflower steak:
The cauliflower was seared and crisp and came on a bed of cheesy ditalini pasta and a drizzle of caramel carrot puree. If you’re going to have mac and cheese, this is the way to have it: rich and delicious, with cauliflower on top.
There were two desserts on the Restaurant Week menu, and we had them both. The buttermilk pie was fine, it tasted like a shortbread cookie with a sweet buttermilk sauce. The sticky toffee pudding was a blur of caramel yumminess – I’d recommend this option if it’s available when you go.
Overall, Haddingtons falls in the category of restaurants with limited but delicious vegetarian options. The food is rich. But that’s OK, right? Because Sinatra would not worry about calories.
Tags: Austin Restaurant Week, cauliflower steak, cocktails, cucumber gazpacho, ditalini, Frank Sinatra, sticky toffee pudding
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March 26, 2012 Austin Restaurant Week 2012
Excited about Austin Restaurant Week? Wondering where to go if you’re vegetarian or vegan?
The Austin Restaurant Week website has a cute guide (carrot = veggie option), but it doesn’t work perfectly. Some restaurants (Fino) have veggie options but don’t have a carrot. Trace has a carrot, but their main course has scallops – good for a pescatarian.
So here are my picks for central restaurants with veg-friendly options:
A lot of Austin vegetarians will be eating risotto this week: Olivia, Asti, Driskill Grill, and Paggi House all offer this as a main, in various yummy-sounding versions.
Cipollina has pasta with sweet potatoes as a vegetarian entree. Botticelli’s will be serving roasted beet napoleon and mushroom pasta as part of a four-course meal. Gusto has butternut squash ravioli, and Braise has gnocchi.
Foreign & Domestic will start you off with spring vegetables in a spicy sauce (with nasturtiums – I’m intrigued) and then serve you pappardelle with fresh truffle butter. (Seems like a deal for $36.)
Olive & June has gnocchi and contorni (vegetables). Parkside has parmesan polenta with tofu.
Dallas import Coal Vines has multiple veggie options, though you’ll have to go with a like-minded friend who wants to split a veggie pizza or be ready to eat the penne vodka. You can also split a pizza and enjoy delicious veggie starters at Backspace.
If you’re dining with a carnivore, you might try steakhouse chain Finn & Porter – they have veggies with port sauce as a main.
Austin vegans dining out for Restaurant Week have five options this year. Garrido’s has chiles rellenos stuffed with vegetables. At Papa Tino’s, you can pick between enchiladas or eggplant rolls. Judges’ Hill has a vegan spaghetti squash dish. Roll on Sushi has veggie sushi. Fino has market vegetable couscous. I had it tonight, and it was delicious:
I don’t know how to summarize the veg dishes at Green Pastures. Once a year, they cook every vegetarian dish they can think of, and serve it all on one plate. I ate there during Restaurant Week two years ago, and it was overwhelming – but delicious. Go here if you’re very hungry.
I’ve made my reservations to check out the cauliflower steak at Haddington’s. I love Restaurant Week.
Tags: Austin Restaurant Week, Braise, couscous, eating out in Austin, Foreign & Domestic, Garrido's, Green Pastures, Gusto, Haddington's, Olive & June, Papa Tino's, risotto, truffle
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March 13, 2012 FoodHeads: Austin, TX
I get a little surly when I have to fork over $5 for a footlong. I can make that myself.
I could also re-create the FoodHeads experience at home, but it would involve making pickles, mustard, and beans from scratch. A little much for a Saturday. These folks are serious about quality ingredients.
FoodHeads is in a cute little bungalow just off of Guadalupe, north of UT. I like sitting on their patio, maybe with one of the food magazines they have on a rack near the door.
The menu, written out on a chalkboard, has tacos, sandwiches, soups, and salads. There is usually a vegetarian soup, often a vegan one, and the salads are pretty tasty.
Sandwiches though are the reason you’re here. The hummus and veggie sandwich is good, as is the grilled portabella and blue cheese. My hands down favorite is the grilled squash, spinach, and fresh mozzarella sandwich – an amazing combination of flavors. The blackberry balsamic vinaigrette (made in house) brings out the rich flavor of the cheese.
On my last visit, I had half of the grilled squash sandwich and a cup of vegetable soup, served with FoodHeads’ crunchy and sweet cucumber pickles.
Next time, I’m getting a whole sandwich. And a fat stack of old Gourmet magazines. And a table on that porch.
Great spot.
Tags: Austin, fresh mozzarella, gourmet sandwich, grilled squash, homemade mustard, homemade pickles, specialty sandwich, vegetable soup
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March 7, 2012 Hillside Farmacy: Austin, TX
The only problem I have with Hillside Farmacy is that it isn’t in my neighborhood. Pout.
Hillside is in an old building that has been stylishly fixed up. Old pharmacy cabinets have a selection of groceries for sale. Glass cases hold a gorgeous selection of cheeses and pastries from Elizabeth St Cafe and La Patisserie.
There’s a raw bar (oysters) and a bar bar. The cocktails look good.
Hillside focuses on fresh, quality ingredients, so that even simple dishes like sandwiches stand out. There are a couple of vegetarian sandwiches and salads, as well as cheese selections and small plates.
We had the Dough Well Done, a grilled cheese with tomato relish and nutmeg. I’m picky about grilled cheese, and this one was tasty. Our server said the tomato relish was a family recipe – it’s pretty great.
In terms of small plates, we loved the gigante beans with olives and the marinated mushrooms, which had a rich aioli on top.
We also had a nice panzanella salad with a poached egg.
They have Stumptown Coffee — I can so imagine coming here some Saturday morning for coffee and a pastry and hanging out in this lovely space.
But this place is from Sonya Cote of Eastside Showroom. There was a two hour wait (!) last time I tried to go there.
So go to Hillside Farmacy right now, before it’s absolutely mobbed.
Tags: Dough Well Done, farmacy, grilled cheese, pastries, pharmacy, small plates, vegetarian sandwiches
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