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Un-Granola

Guide for sophisticated vegetarian dining

Tag Archives: Portland

Natural Selection, a tiny restaurant in Portland’s hip and fun Alberta Street neighborhood, has beautiful botanical prints of vegetables on the walls. Reminder: a head of red cabbage is actually quite beautiful.

Vegetables are front and center at this restaurant. They’re on the side and on top, too.

There’s a prix fixe menu of four courses for $35. You have two choices for each course. It’s an astonishingly low price for this caliber of cooking and the sheer effort that goes into these plates.

The menu changes weekly, and everything was vegan and gluten-free the night we visited. Natural Selection isn’t strictly vegan, but they seem vegan-friendly.

Our first course dishes were a slightly bland sweet corn/parsnip soup with a pleasingly heavy texture, courtesy of the pureed lobster mushrooms. And roasted beets with pear.

I liked that the beets and pear were treated with a light hand – the pimenton and walnuts brought out the sweetness of the main ingredients.

Next up were two salads: figs and glacier lettuce and a more traditional heirloom tomato:

The fig and lettuce combination was light and refreshing. The dish benefited from that miracle ingredient, marcona almonds. (I recently had to tell a friend that they’re tasty because they’re fried, not because they’re “from Spain.” Sorry!)

Heirloom tomatoes don’t need much. In this dish, watermelon and balsamic brought sweetness and acidity to the tomatoes. The light topping of fried onions was a nice, crunchy surprise. Natural Selection’s focus on ingredients (and not on complicated sauces or new techniques) was most clear in this dish.

The evening’s only miss, a chanterelle and potato hash, was one of our third courses. No one at our table loved this heavy dish. We did like the hazelnut sauce that came with it.

Our second dish for course three was a summer squash risotto:

Made with white beans and lentils, it was the only dish of the night that had protein. The fried squash blossoms were delicious, perfect with the creamy risotto.

Dessert involved a winning fresh fruit crumble that was demolished in no time, and a slightly less popular (perhaps because it was less sweet) squash and pistachio cake.

I didn’t love everything I had at Natural Selection. But I’d happily come back for a reminder of just how glorious vegetables can be, when treated with a respectful hand.

This place is tiny, and reservations are pretty much essential. And since there are only two choices for every course, this is probably not the best spot for picky eaters. And I suspect that special requests to hold this or substitute that might lead to a chef marching over from the open kitchen to bop you on the head.

 

 

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I cook quinoa pretty often. Both a grain and a protein, quinoa is an easy choice for the unambitious vegetarian cook.

The folks at Andina in Portland start with quinoa, and end up with this:

Behold: quinoa salad. It’s a terrine of sorts with black and white quinoa and vegetables. The fattiness of the cotija cheese, olives, and avocado play off the chewiness of the quinoa. I would love to make this at home, but this dish takes real effort.

Quinoa comes from the Andes, so it makes sense that Andina serves such a cool dish with it in their bright, bustling space overlooking the Pearl District. Andina has a vegetarian menu and can accommodate vegans, though cheese is in many dishes.

Besides the quinoa, and a plate of perfectly grilled asparagus, I had a dish of roasted beets:


I’ve never had beets and mushrooms together before. With the  slightly spicy aji green sauce (and sesame oil), the combination was really good. The pickled vegetables brought some  acidity and brightness to the plate.

Most dishes come in small, medium, and large. It would be fun to sample a bunch of vegetarian dishes with a group of friends. (Your carnivorous friends, especially the fish-eating ones, will love this place too.)

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Rooftop restaurants sound cheesy to me. I always wonder if they’ll revolve. And I expect only dreary decor and forgettable food.

Departure, at the top of The Nines hotel, looks like the sleek, sexy airport departure lounge of your dreams. And the food is amazing – possibly the best meal we had in a week of dedicated eating during our trip to Portland.

Departure has a vegan menu. For a gal from Texas, this is astounding.

And since this Asian-inspired food, there is vegan protein in the form or tofu, tempeh, and edamame.

I started out with shiitake nigiri sushi:

The complexity of the smoked citrus soy and garlic soy caramel were perfect with the chewy, earthy mushrooms. This might have been my favorite dish of the night.

The gingered mushrooms followed:

The mushrooms, some greens, and slices of Asian pear came on a bed of pureed parsnips. While the puree was delicious (it tasted buttery, which is hard to accomplish in a vegan dish without butter), the dish overall could have used something crunchier than the fresh greens. Maybe panko?

Then came the brussel sprouts, which friends had told us we had to order:

Cooked with malt vinegar, lime, and chili, this was a complex, tasty dish. These brussel sprouts are pulled apart, with individual leaves composing the salad. This gives them a light texture. The strong flavor of cilantro tasted great with the heat of the chili and the acidity of the vinegar and lime.

Since we only had to waddle to the elevator to get back to our hotel room, we went ahead and split a warm ginger black plum crisp.

It was comfort food (sweet cooked plums) with a surprise element : the astringent, only slightly sweet Thai basil ice cream.  An Asian-influenced crisp.

Departure can be expensive (order lots of sushi) or moderate (stick with the  larger plates).

All this deliciousness, AND you get a gorgeous view:

Makes me rethink dining at the top.

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